Retinol Alternatives: Do Any Of Them Actually Work?

Retinol is the gold standard of anti-aging topical skin care — it’s used to promote cell turnover and enhance the production of collagen, which helps with issues like fine lines, hyperpigmentation and acne. But it’s not for everyone. If you have sensitive, eczema-prone or rosacea-prone skin; are pregnant or breastfeeding; or have a preference toward natural or organic skin care, you may be better served by a retinol alternative.

“Traditional retinol is made with vitamin A and helps accelerate cell turnover as well as collagen production but can cause irritation in sensitive skin types,” said Dr. Jeannette Graf , a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mt. Sinai School of Medicine. “Retinol alternatives have different ingredients such as bakuchiol, peptides, azelaic acid and alpha hydroxy acids, which, when combined, can [have] the same effect as traditional retinol without causing any irritation or redness.”

The good news is that there are tons of retinol alternatives on the market, and some of them can yield similar results to the OG chemical with few to none of the side effects. The bad news? The sheer number of alternatives is overwhelming, and it’s tough to parse out the most effective subs from the more questionable ones. Plus, “retinol alternatives” seems to be a bit of a loosely defined term, and dermatologists feel not every ingredient that is marketed as such truly qualifies.

“Retinol alternatives” fall into two buckets, explained Dr. Robyn Gmyrek , a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Columbia University. First are those that are not derived from vitamin A, “but still bind to the retinoic acid receptors and function like